Modifying An Axe For Competitive Throwing

How to modify an axe for throwing - for fun or competition.

Most axes are not ready for any use when you buy them. Axes and hatchets have only a basic blade shape and edge. The cutting edge is only ground to a rough shape to make the axe salable, but not actually usable.

Some axes or hatchets have a thick blade designed for splitting, while others have a narrower profile for chopping. But none are really sharp of the rack. And none are ready for throwing.

A throwing axe must have a thinner blade to slice into a plank and stick when thrown. The optimum cutting edge has a deeper, wider bevel than any standard axe. The exception to this are solid steel, forged axes or tomahawks like those from Estwing, Condor and others. But these one-piece axes with forged blades and steel handles are not typically used in axe throwing venues or competitions – although they are indestructible and great for informal throwing.

Forged Hand Axe, Sharpened for Throwing

The National Axe Throwing Federation (NATF at www.nationalaxe.com) requires that the standard axe (hatchet) must have the following specifications:

• The axe head must weigh between 1.25 and 1.75 pounds • The axe handle must be wood and at least 13 inches long, measured through the eye from the top of the axe head • The blade of the axe must be less than 4 inches long

Based on these requirements, you will need to start with a standard wood-handle hatchet for competitive throwing and most axe league events.

I like to make the following modifications to a new hand axe for throwing:

1. I select a hatchet that has a squared head with a 90-degree top corner. I stay away from axe heads that are very round on the top corner because I like a sharp point to dig into the wooden target. Ideally when throwing for bullseyes I would like the top corner of the axe to stick with the handle at a 45-degree angle. On the other hand, if you are throwing to cut playing cards and want the maximum blade in the wood, you may want a curved blade shape.

The Perfect “Stick” for 5 Points

2. Next, I flatten and widen the bevel on the blade. This is a slow process that begins with the gentle use of a grinder and then progresses through several files. Eventually the blade is finished on a belt sander and then honed with an oil stone.

3. During the filing and sanding process I may also remove some of the curve in the edge of the blade to produce the straight edge that I prefer. All this grinding and filing and sanding must be slow to prevent overheating the steel and losing the temper.

Before and After Re-beveling the Blade

4. Finally, I shorten the handle to just over 13 inches. I also remove some of the swell at the end of the handle to make the release smoother when throwing.

Axe Handle Modified for Throwing

A throwing axe does not have to be expensive. Despite being thrown at a target, the actual usage is far less demanding than any axe used by a logger or homesteader. Also, some less expensive axes are easier to sharpen than fancier hand-forged show pieces with hard, brittle steel. Your throwing axe is going to bounce off the wall and floor. You may even snap the wooden handles. You do not want to subject a fancy $100 axe to all this abuse!

I would much rather take an inexpensive axe and modify it for throwing. Since I sharpen knives and axes, I can make the required modifications in my workshop. I can re-bevel an off-the-shelf axe for $25.00 for anyone that requires this service but does not have the time or the tools. I also sell finished standard throwing axes for $50.00. I can re-sharpen axes, hatchets and tomahawks (and remove nicks in the blade) for $9.00.

Amazingly, an inexpensive hatchet with a wooden handle is actually stronger than many sold steel axes. I have broken stainless steel axes throwing at the same wood targets. For more information on the Practice Axe Target, follow this link.